Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Multicolored Plaid Sport Coat

Front button style: one button
Button stance: very low (I like a low button stance, but this is too low.  On the upside, if worn with today's low-rise pants, the button matches up perfectly with the rise, so that no shirt or tie is revealed beneath the button.)
Jacket length: long
Front darts: none (almost no waist suppression)

Lapel width: classic
Lapel style: notch
Notch height: low

Colors: hot pink, teal, black, gray, tan, and beige.
Pattern: plaid (does anyone have a more precise name for this plaid pattern?)

Jetted or patch pockets: jetted
Straight or hacking (angled): straight
Flapped or flapless: flapless

Sleeve button style: two button
Spacing: apart

Vent style: ventless

Shoulder: moderately padded



Age verdict based on all the above evidence: circa 1985-1989





Thursday, April 13, 2017

Wednesday, April 12, 2017

1966 Sears Christmas Book




Check out #2, a one button sport coat with side vents and cloverleaf lapels, "the look that's taking the lead in men's sportswear".

Saturday, March 18, 2017

Armie Hammer at SXSW


Armie Hammer wore this slim notch-lapel, one-button suit with three patch pockets at South by Southwest. 

Thursday, March 2, 2017

David Oyelowo at 2017 Spirit Awards



David Oyelowo wore this one-button, shawl-lapel suit to the 2017 Spirit Awards.  Make no mistake: this is not a tuxedo; this is a business suit.  The one-button, shawl-lapel suit was a 1960's trend that unfortunately never really caught on.  It's the most simply elegant of all suit styles, especially with a low button stance as worn here. 

Saturday, February 25, 2017

Dan Stevens at the 'Beauty and the Beast' London Premiere



Check out the button-one, single-breasted, peak-lapel, navy suit that Dan Stevens wore to the 'Beauty and the Beast' London Premiere.  I agree with Tom + Lorenzo that his look is bland, but it would be even more bland if the suit was a button-two.

Saturday, February 11, 2017

New Anthony Sinclair Suit



In his latest post, Matt Spaiser of The Suits of James Bond showcases the button one suit he just had specially made from Mason & Sons, heir to the name of Anthony Sinclair, who was Sean Connery's tailor during his tenure as Bond. 

Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Gray Blazer


Front button style: button two
Button stance: classic (buttons at natural waist)
Jacket length: slightly short
Sleeve length: classic
Front darts: yes (slight waist suppression)
Color: medium gray

Lapel width: slightly wider than classic
Lapel edge: swelled
Lapel style: notch
Notch height: slightly high (but not high by today's standards)

Jetted or patch pockets: patch
Flapped or flapless: flapped
Flap height: classic

Cuff button style: button one

Vent style: single
Vent height: deep (11"; classic height is 8-10")

Shoulder: moderately padded and extended 


A Southern California chain that went out of business in 1991, so the blazer can't be any newer than that.

Age verdict: late-1960's (or very early 1970's), for 3 primary reasons:
1) the late 60's were a transitional period between the thin lapels of the early-mid-60's and the wide lapels of the 70's;
2) Deep vents started becoming popular in the late 60's;
3) Although the button one front reached its apex of popularity in the mid-60's, the button one cuff remained stylish for a couple years thereafter, even on button two and three fronts. 



Sunday, January 29, 2017

Tomorrow Never Dies



Check out the most recent post on my favorite blog, The Suits of James Bond, about the button one suit worn by the henchman Stamper in the 1997 James Bond film, Tomorrow Never Dies.  Although in my personal opinion, the suit’s cons outweigh its pros, it’s noteworthy for two reasons: its undeniable uniqueness, and its suitability to the character.  Kudos to costume designer Lindy Hemming for putting so much thought into the suit of a minor Bond villain. 

Saturday, January 28, 2017

Mary Tyler Moore and Dick Van Dyke



In honor of Mary Tyler Moore, who died this week at age 80, yesterday's post on one my favorite blogs, Ivy Style, showcased various 1960's styles worn on The Dick Van Dyke Show, including the button one suit. 

Thursday, January 26, 2017

60's Black/Off-white Check Sport Coat

Front button style: button one
Button stance: classic (buttons at natural waist; I prefer a lower button stance, but this jacket was meant to be worn with pants at the natural waist, so it makes sense)
Button color: off-white (so it almost blends into the jacket rather than contrasting with it, as black would)
Jacket length: short
Sleeve length: short
Front darts: none (almost no waist suppression)

Lapel width: thin
Lapel style: notch
Notch shape: half-clover (straight on top, curved on bottom)
Notch height: classic
Chest pocket: none (perhaps the jacket's most minimalist touch, more so than the one button)

Color: black and off-white
Pattern: check (Does anyone have a more precise name for this check pattern? I've had two suggestions: "gingham" and simply "check".) 

Jetted or patch pockets: jetted
Straight or hacking (angled): hacking
Flapped or flapless: flapped
Flap height: short

Sleeve button style: button one
Button size: large (same size as the front button)

Vent style: double vents
Vent height: short (5")

Shoulder: somewhat padded and slightly extended (the only negative and element that's inconsistent with both the jacket's overall minimalism and the 60's American style)

Country of manufacture: USA

Anyone ever heard of this shop?

Age verdict based on all the above evidence: mid-1960's